Dinner With the Site Host family

JM and her friends use the term “guesting” for making visits to someone’s home. Guesting can be both full of surprises and exhausting at the same time. For JM, those moments requiring her translation skills are demanding as people want her to tell us something then her father wants her to tell the family something. Yikes, this makes me tired typing this.

After visiting with Ida and her family, we returned to JM’s home to rest. Her host family in Deveiche had invited us to dinner at their home later that evening. It is 7 o’clock and we head out to meet her host family, Joshgu, Fatima and their three children. Our walk takes back thru the main part of the town and by Sanyo’s school. We arrive, appetites ready and excited to meet the family JM lived with for four months. Truly, this is where she improved her Azeri skills the most and where she started her job teaching English,

The family greets us as we walk through the gates and quickly ushers us inside. They are a warm and loving family as we were all greeted with big hugs as if long lost friends are reuniting. We remove our shoes and go into the dining room for hot tea and sweets. Joshgu, the father, is a big, muscular man so different than other Azeri men. And, he has a big personality to match. I knew the moment I met him he and Russ would get along well, and they did. 

Back to tea, we were seated in the dining room and served tea and sweets by Joshgu and his son Josef. The sweets at this home are unbelievable. Fatima made baklava, a favorite of JM, which was fabulous. This is not the baklava we purchase in Ohio, rather it has less phyllo dough and honey, and more nuts. I thought it was not as sweet as any baklava I have ever had. Next came the cookies…..a large bowl of cookies, crackers and finally blackberry jam. The jam could be used in your tea or with cookies, however everyone just ate it off the spoon. I need to mention that Sanyo also joined us, again he is part of the famly and we were thrilled to have him with us.

Following tea, the men started the grill for kabobs, while Fatima prepared food in the kitchen. While all of this is going on, JM took us to her room to show us her quarters for four months. Some things had changed, but it was still the same room she lived in. Because she had sent us pictures, we were already familiar with her surroundings. While it was off the main house, Joshgu’s mother told him it was alright for JM to live away from the main house because she was a good girl. We then went outside and watched the grandmother flip the wool and air it out in preparation for winter. This wool will be stuffed in the mattresses [put azeri word here] for sleeping. It was fascinating to watch.

Kabobs were soon served along with roasted tomatoes, cucumbers and fresh homemade bread. This was all great food and we thought this was the meal. Oh no, not for JM’s family. Kabobs were followed dolma that was followed by birthday plove. We thought our training in feasting would prepare us, but nothing could prepare us for the meal we were served. It was truly non-stop and we actually ran out of room on the table. Throughout this time, the men had an amazing conversation, some translated by JM and some just men communicating. Once more, we learned that this man would not let anything happen to JM and he gave his word to Russ to watch over her. It was incredibly touching to see the JM’s two “fathers.” These men found more in common than anyone could imagine. After much toasting to family and daughters, these men were friends for life.

After touring the gardens, we had coffee and bid our farewells. We left with full stomachs and full hearts for the wonderful family we just dined with.  s we were walking home, I realized I forgot my cell phone. JM calls her father, and surprisingly the men of the family were following us to ensure we got home safe. My phone was quickly retrieved as was the present given to JM for her birthday that she forgot. We later learned that in spite of our assurances we could get home safely, they still followed us all the way home and waited for JM to lock the gate. Then, after quick telephone call to ensure we were locked inside Joshgu and his brother departed. Amazing.

A few things I have not mentioned while writing. First, I mention touring lush vegetable gardens as they are an important way of life for Azeri families. The fruit and vegetables are harvested to eat daily, but a great deal of time is spent canning for the winter when vegetables are sparse. Second, we gave presents to each family to thank them for their kind and caring support of JM during her training and now during her teaching. It was important to Russ and I to show our thanks to these wonderful people. And, they often had gifts for us. It was a show of deep respect and gratitude from both families. Last, the Azeri men appear to be very stoic and reserved on the outside. Given the opportunity to get to know them better, we learned these men are truly proud and honorable men who have served their country. They have great respect for male family and friends who have served with them.

Going to bed that night, Russ and I could not have been more thrilled with the town JM lives in and the people around her. There could not be a better friend than Sanyo, her sitemate. He makes sure she eats (he is an amazing cook) and is there to watch movies with, talk to and basically live life daily. Thank you Sanyo. The families we met who have embraced JM and have taken her in as one of their own. She is fortunate to have them around her. With that, we pack for our return trip to Baku as our time in Deveiche is over.