JM’s Birthday

We celebrated JM’s birthday with 6 of her fellow friends who are also AZ8. [Emily, Josh, Mercedes, Di, Cari and Jody]. Let me first start out by saying how honored and truly humbled we were to be sitting amongst some of America’s finest talent who elected to serve their country thru the Peace Corps. To the many others we did not meet and those past and future volunteers, thank you.

On to the birthday celebration….we chose a restaurant above McDonald’s because it had a large selection of food and drink, and a great view of the plaza. After everyone had arrived, Russ asked each person to provide their full name, where they were from, what school they attended and what was their occupation prior to joining the Peace Corps. We learned a lot about the group, and it was like catching up with old friends due to the blogs they write. The infamous Josh [BatfishinginMontana] and Cari [Cariazeri] are two blogs spots we follow just to name a few. More importantly, we found two more Ohio connections. Josh and Mercedes. It is uncanny how one can go anywhere in the world, and always find a connection to Ohio! Go Bucks!!

A note for others, read the blogs JM recommends and others recommend as these blogs contain a wealth of information and experiences while in the PC.

The party continued until our appetites were satisfied and thirst quenched……that is until the cake (from Ohio) arrived. With three spectacular candles, trust me 25 of these would have taken the cake down, we sang happy birthday and watched JM turn officially 25!!! Large pieces of vanilla cake and butter cream icing were served and everyone was beyond full. It was an enjoyable evening and one we shall not forget. We left the group to return to the hotel and they continued the celebration through the night.

Visiting Host Families

We have been in Azerbaijan for one full day and have found so many similarities to other foreign capital cities we have visited. Baku is a very cosmopolitan city, with considerable development and growth. Large and newer buildings surround the old town where a walk along the cobblestone streets gives you an idea of the original city. We walked past the Maiden’s Tower, a historical landmark now neighbored by a very modern building. Continuing our walk we saw the new Hilton that will open at the end of the month, a new Four Seasons under construction and many very nice buildings also under construction. We walked along the boulevard along the Caspian Sea and marveled at the beautiful vistas around us. Ironically, the other side of the boulevard is lined with the chic, high fashion shopping. A contrast to the old city a few blocks away. We are very fortunate to be here and are now off to visit JM’s host family during pre service training. 

JM lived and studied Azeri in the town of Tagiev, a suburb of Sumgyat. We were invited to dinner with the family to meet the wonderful people who took care of JM for three months. Our drive took us about one hour north of Baku on a 4 lane highway littered with auto marts where one could buy a fresh kabob, fill up on petrol or purchase anyone of the fruits currently in season. Soon, we took a right turn when least expected and entered Tagiev.

Arriving in Tagiev brought about two different sets of emotions. For JM, excitement and enthusiasm for the family that took her in as one of their daughters for three months when she had limited communication skills, and for us imagining the feelings and emotions these volunteers felt as they embarked on a change beyond our imaginations. To say we were experiencing change is an under statement.

We turned on the main street toward the merchants shops and saw JM’s host mother and daughter. Her host mother runs a tailoring/seamstress shop in town. After a very warm and welcoming greeting we were taken to the grandfather’s home for a feast. The trip there consisted of taking unpaved roads, some with large potholes requiring skilled maneuvering of our driver. We would refer to these roads as paths.

The family showed up en masse to greet us and immediately took us in as their family. The Azeris are incredibly warm and welcoming people. While I had earlier mentioned they do not smile, what I learned is behind the gates to their homes, they are all about family and some of the most inviting people you will meet. Our driver, who is the brother-in-law of JM’s landlord from Baku was invited into their home and treated with the same hospitality as us. Their truly caring and warm manner made it very easy to feel at home. One must think there was a language gap, but I beg to differ. The grandfather and uncle made it very clear to Russ that JM was their daughter too and they were there to take care of her. He did not need a translator for that.

The visit opened with hot tea, fruit and pastries served out side the family home in the yard wile seated under a natural pergula made of grape vines providing wonderful shade from the sun. Grapes were picked right off the vine, washed and served. Fabulous. Fruit and herbs are also grown in the yard. Fresh figs, peaches and plums were ample and tasty. Pomegranates (nars) were just coming in and will be ready in the fall. The backyard was lush and beautiful. We talked a lot…asking questions not normally asked of someone you just met such as, “How old are you? What type of car do you drive?” The Azeri’s are inquisitive and seem to want to learn as much as possible. JM did a lot of great work translating our words, and we learned very quickly that there is something about being with family that doesn’t need translating. It was AMAZING!!!

During this time, the men started a fire in the open grill and soon it was time to cook. The tea cups were removed and cleaned, and the men stoked the fire to prepare it for chicken kabobs. Grandfather skewered the kabobs himself, first chicken then tomatoes. These skewers were easily 3 feet long……something we need to have for our grills at home.  The men cooked the kabobs by laying the skewered meat and tomatoes right over the open fire to cook with no grate. Interestingly, salt was sprinkled on the coal right before cooking. Meanwhile, the women garnished the table with bowls of fresh cucumbers, onion and tomatoes (all from the garden) and fresh bread. One of the breads immediately reminded us of tortillas although much thinner. The men pulled the kabobs off the grill, the meat was placed in bowls and dinner was served.

As with most ethnic cultures, family celebrations are often around food and this was no different. We ate until we could eat no more. Throughout dinner, the men drank vodka and toasted to fatherhood and family. It was a great celebration by all full of much laughter and conversation.

Dinner was followed by fresh fruit and tea, only the tea was made outside in a samovar by the men. A samovar is a metal container that uses wood to heat the water and ultimately the tea kettle. It is wonderful sight to see. The evening continued with many more conversations and pictures. Let me stop here and discuss pictures. Many, many pictures were taken. The Azeris love to take pictures!!! We took pictures of the men, picture of the women, family pictures, sister pictures. You name it and we captured it in a photo. Our time spent with JM’s host family was great fun and will provide many years of fond memories. We were sad to leave, but had to drive back to the hotel in Baku. After many hugs, kisses and tears, we left feeling we have family any time we visit Azerbaijan.

On our trip back to Baku, we were very fortunate to go see Fire Mountain. A must see for anyone traveling to Azerbaijan. Fire Mountain is a natural phenomena due to the abundance of oil and gas. Literally, a fire burns off the side of a wall …much like an eternal flame. You could walk down to the wall that was very hot, but worth the trip. For the Hodge’s, it was a Christmas card worthy photo. While there, we met a gentleman speaking Spanish who lived and studied English on Columbus Ohio. Talk about a coincidence?! He and his family are originally from South America and have moved to Baku for work. We learned from him that there is a large contingent of Spanish speaking people in Baku. While you will here many other languages being spoken in Baku, this was the first time JM has heard Spanish. Yet another indicator of a large, cosmopolitan city.  We returned to the Hyatt tired and happy knowing our travels would take us to JM’s permanent site the next day.

JM’s Home

We woke up, ate and packed for our next journey to visit JM’s home in Shabran or Devechi. Devechi loosely translates into camel riders and the bus station sits where the camel market was once located. JM’s landlord Mir Haydar and his brother-in-law met us at the Hyatt and drove us to her home that is part of the family compound. Our trip took us on the same highway out of Baku, pass Tagiev and further north about an hour to Devechi. We stopped by one of the road side markets to buy fresh watermelon which is in season. Looking out toward the west we were able to see  [five finger mountain (Besh Barmaog) and the mosque]. Completely unexpected to see from where we were stopped.

As we drove we thought the landscape had many similarities to southwestern / western United States. It was dry with a lot of fine dust like the high prairies of far western Nebraska.

Upon arrival, we were greeted by the entire family - the landlord’s wife, daughter, son-in-law and granddaughter. After much fanfare, we took to JM’s home, unpacked and rested for a bit until it was time to eat and celebrate.

JM lives in a family compound of two small homes situated behind large metal gates that are always secured. Her place is comprised of a small kitchen, a living room and a bedroom. She has decorated with photos of family and favorite things. It is interesting to be in home that she pays rent on and has decorated to he liking with items sent from Ohio. It is cozy and provides her with a lot of room to live in. Her landlord opened the back room up for us to sleep in, and new linens were purchased for us. How nice. Her shower is in another small building about 10 feet away as is the toilette. As with the first host family, the yard is filled with fruit trees that not only provide fruit in season but shade as well. Herbs are grown throughout the yard as are tomatoes, peppers and eggplant. We cannot figure out how this land is able to grow so many fruits and vegetables in abundance. The dirt resembles the clay in Ohio that is very difficult to grow crops in.

On to the celebration. The family prepared a wonderful birthday celebration for JM and the family. Her site mate Sanyo was invited over to join us as he is as much of the family as is JM. As with typical feast, the meal started with tea, pastries and fruit. As a tea lover I very much enjoy this. Following the tea, the men embarked on a conversation on family and fatherhood. Once more, Russ learned that JM is considered a daughter to her landlord and he would take care of her while she is living there. It was touching to see the heartfelt concern displayed by these gentleman. Soon it time for the meal, and we were served three sisters dolma. Dolma is a meat and rice dish wrapped or stuffed and baked in butter and oil. There are three different types of dolma. They are grape leaf, cabbage and three sisters. Three sisters dolma includes stuffed peppers, eggplant and tomatoes. Sliced tomatoes, cucumbers and onions were served along side. As is typical with Azeri celebrations, there was more than enough food and everyone’s appetite was satiated. Soon dessert followed which was a homemade birthday cake for JM by Durdana the landlords wife. A candle was lit and Happy Birthday sung. Durdana makes wedding cakes for a living and this showed it. It was truly a wonderful gift.

One of the unique aspects of the evening was the men toasted with Johnny Walker scotch whiskey instead of vodka. This was to pay respect to Russ being American and the father of JM, and the belief that all Americans drink whiskey. Once more, it did not take translation to understand the importance the men place on family. It was a thoughtful gesture and Russ certainly appreciated it.

Now lets talk about the candles. As we indicated candles here are spectacular. This candle was right up there in the candle hall of fame. It was one big candle with about 6 candles within it. Once completely lit, then Happy Birthday was played.  From what we learned, there are many more spectacular candles than what we saw. It would be worth bringing them home with us.

The evening ended with more tea, family and conversation. Soon the family packed up and headed back to Baku. The four of us went into JM’s home and talked until late in the night. Sanyo walked home and we called it a night.

A Day In Deveiche

The next day started with the roosters crowing and daylight streaming into the window. JM made coffee for her father and her in the French press we brought with us, and tea for me. Her neighbor Ida came by to pick mint from the garden and she invited us over for a lunch of plove, a favorite dish of JM. We quickly dressed and set out to walk around the city. We walked to the main street past several men’s tea houses and to the bazaar. The bazaar was full of vendors selling fruit, vegetables, legumes, spices, etc. It is open each morning for about four hours and is an opportunity to purchase the ingredients for your daily meals. JM has her favorite vendors we visited with and purchased dried apricots. We visited the stores to see what they have to offer buying water and coke light. While the selection is not great, one can still purchase some staples. It is a bit pricey and I understand the need to send things from home.

We continued to walk throughout the city, to the bus stop, by Sanyo’s apartment and to the park. Finally, we made it to the school where JM teaches, except it was closed for the holiday. We snapped photos and JM guided us from the outside to see where her classrooms were located. It was great to see the school and it completed the puzzle that is now JM’s life. Unfortunately, we were unable to meet her teachers or any of her students. That would have been nice, but school has yet to start here.

Walking home, we stopped in a park to enjoy the peaceful and beautiful surroundings. It was a fairly quiet morning and not many people were out. As we approached home, we stopped at the neighbors to visit. Ida was not yet home, and her father-in-law graciously welcomed us into his yard for tea and sweets. He told us his yard has been used for four weddings! You could see that with the way the grape vines have grown in and provided shade. It was really a beautiful yard.

 Ida’s son served us tea, that was unusual, but we later learned the ladies of the house were visiting the cemetery. Soon the ladies arrived home, and before you know it, another fabulous meal appeared – plove. Plove is like rice pilaf with cooked down fruits and onions on top. It is very good, and as we learned you only eat plove with a spoon. Never a fork and you will be gently corrected if you do it wrong. Ida’s daughters cooked for us, while we conversed outside. Her mother and father – in-law, son, daughters, and nephews joined the meal. Ida speaks good English and wants her son to study at university in America. So Russ had the young man sit right next to him and make him speak English. He was firm and did not allow him to go back to Azeri or Russian. It was a good time for both of them.

The meal ended and we soon started taking pictures. As before, we took many pictures of the table, the family, the in-laws, you name it. While Azeri’s love picture taking, they do not like to smile. So we have taken to saying “pandir” which means cheese in Azeri. After explaining, why we would say “cheese” everyone had a big laugh and we even had the family saying cheese. It was a great time.

Cooking, as you might have guessed, is very important as there are not fast food establishments outside of Baku. The ladies are taught to cook from their mothers and pass it down to their daughters. Ida and I had a wonderful conversation on making plove. There is one Azeri spice I do not have, but it would be nice to make it. (I am certain the internet has a recipe for it!!) And, Ida said she will teach JM to cook! She wants to make sure JM is eating properly and take care of her. Truly, the generosity of the people we have met has been overwhelming. I hope every visitor to Azerbaijan experiences what we have.